Cincinnati Concrete Company
Work with a Reputable Cincinnati Concrete Company for Professional Results | Good Garages & Exteriors
The Importance of Having a Quality Concrete Slab
Why Should You Choose Us As Your Cincinnati Concrete Contractor?
- Quality workmanship
- Great customer service
- A free estimate
- Financing options
- Wide range of services to choose from
Discover the Services that We As an Exterior and Concrete Contractor Have in Store for You!
- Garage Doors
- Decks & More
- Shed Foundation
Standard steps for replacing a concrete driveway, patios, and sidewalks
- Determine why the old concrete or blacktop driveway, patio, or sideewalked failed
- At its lifespan
- Poor drainage causing settling
- Tree roots
- Improper prior installation
- Soil (base) was not compacted correctly
- Material not placed at the right thickness
- Remove existing concrete or blacktop material
- Access existing grading, soil conditions, and water management
- Remove soil if needed to obtain proper slope, grade, or room for sub-base
- Try not to disturb more soil than necessary where the new driveway is going
- Install drainage if required
- Run compactor on soil if required depending on site
- Haul in base material (usually gravel) and set to desired height
- Compact base material
- Install rebar for reinforcement
- Place concrete
- Pull forms
- Place topsoil, seed, and straw if required
Frequently Asked Questions
5 Inches is standard for most residential applications, but the thickness is only one factor in what determines the strength of a concrete driveway.
4 inches of gravel is standard. What type of gravel base and amount is determined by the type of concrete project.
There are typically three types of reinforcement:
- The first is metal rebar which has great tinsel strength and shear which can be used in almost all applications including doweling into a foundation. But it does have limitations with some accelerants used in concrete mixes.
- The second is fiberglass which has great tinsel strength and is most commonly used in the grids for flat work (Concrete patios, sidewalks, and driveways).
- Road mesh is a metal 7”x7” grid mat that is much thinner than typical #3-#5 rebar.
Typically you can expect 25-45 years, with the average life span being 35 years for a concrete driveway
Due to the curing process, the moisture content is reduced causing the slab to shrink about 1/16” in about every 10 feet. The faster you can cut in relief joints, the better. It is best practice to cut joints in the first 24 hours. Whether tooling or cutting the joints, they need to be 1/4 of the slab in depth to work effectively.
There are many variables with pouring concrete in the winter. When done correctly and not letting the concrete get below 50 degrees in the first 5 days, it can be done without compromising the integrity of the concrete with blankets, proper mixes, and even heaters.
Typical slope for exterior concrete is 1/8” per linear foot. This helps there be proper drainage and to prevent standing water.
A vapor barrier is required when you are trying to prevent the vapor drive of moisture through the porous concrete. Most commonly it is used when you plan on enclosing the concrete with a structure such as a garage or basement. It is important because If you have ever had an old basement where you set something on the concrete and it accumulated moisture (for example, a cardboard box, and the box got soggy after a period of time), you know you don’t have a vapor barrier.
The PSI rating for concrete along with additives is very important in the strength and the ability for the concrete to stand up to the elements. We pour all of our driveways, patios, and sidewalks with a mix rated at 4000 PSI or greater. This is higher than the industry standard.
In Cincinnati, we have a 30” deep frost depth due to freeze and thaw seasons. We do not dowel our non-frost-protected concrete into the foundation that is frost protected. The reason for this is if bulk water does get below the new slab and freezes, it creates a pressure point in the concrete where the dowel is and could possibly pop the concrete. We choose to place the dowel below the concrete allowing the pad to float up but not settle, keeping it at the correct elevation for the life of the concrete.